Dawdix Outdoor Sprinkler Toy | Water Rocket Outdoor Sprinkler Toy for Kids Age 3+, Summer Cooling Yard Games Funny Water Spray Toy (da-PSHJ)

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The student holding the button should keep his/her trigger finger off of the button until the final countdown is initiated. The button is sensitive and can easily misfire. I usually refrain from interfering with students' designs, however if a student has created a poorly built fuselage I will step in and help them. Making a new fuselage after attaching everything else can be a hassle. High volume launchers don't require as high of a pressure to get good results. This is a great option for kids where 20-30 pounds is just about the limit of what you can do with a bike pump. Drill a hole in a the 1.25 inch PVC cap for the button. The size needed will be different for whichever button you use.

This side is harder to get exactly right, but since I am using it for the valve stem, it doesn't have to be perfectly parallel with the frame tubes. Take the solenoid off of the sprinkler valve (just unscrews by hand, see the photos). If you don't do this, the solenoid will hit the frame body and won't screw onto the frame. This is an optional step, but adding it prevents users from over-pressurizing the system to a point of failure. Thanks to aaron.linker for suggesting it! If the pressure goes over the max set on the relief valve, it will "pop" to relieve the pressure and then close again.Item #: 249620 | Model #: 57661 10.22 Main Release Valve - This part can be replaced with a quarter turn ball valve... but why? Make sure the solenoid is off-center! (the off-center solenoid models seem to be the high pressure variety that we want). One of my cleanup tasks is to try to manage the battery life/solenoid lifecycle risk a bit better. I am not going to mangle the explanation here, but rather link to a good source on it: https://rayshobby.net/wordpress/understanding-24va... The punchline being this: "the issue is that under DC there is no reactance, so the coil’s inductance plays no effect at limiting the current" -- this observation means that the solenoids can easily overheat or burn up sending them VDC if we hold down the button too long (at least this is my understanding). Glue one elbow to the Tee making sure that the threaded Tee opening is facing the same direction as the elbow opening. For the valve stem plug, you say to use a 1in threaded plug I f there is a 3/4in sprinkler valve; or use a 3/4in threaded plug if you use a 1in sprinkler valve. Why is this? I realize you went all 1in outlets in latter designs. First and most important - why trying to figure this out: Don't put your face in front of the launch tube. There is no valuable debugging information to be gained by doing that, and you can lose and eye!

AFTER a few hours, the glue should be fully set. It only takes a couple minutes for the glue to hold, but it doesn't hurt to be cautious. I usually wait a full day just in case. A future improvement might be to add a gasket on the inside of the cap with the nozzle so that there is more support around the weak point. When the PVC starts getting worn out (this is why I like painting the PVC, it shows the wear much easier), replace the body of the launcher! It's not worth saving a little bit of money if the PVC fails. Lightly screw the launch tube into the street elbow. This will need to be easily unscrewed later to transport the launcher. We were using the same 9v batteries for many days. We took them to quite a few airshows where they were used all day (over 7 days) and I haven't had to change the batteries in any of them. I did notice that you are using an Orbit sprinkler valve, and I have only used the Rainbird valves. That's all that I can think of for the difference in run times. Might be worth trying a Rainbird valve if you build another? (I can't imagine they would be that different though).So, be careful. Wrap the device in a heavy blanket or a shield that will contain any potential shrapnel. I really don't think duct tape is sufficient; it can fail too. This is especially important if the device is a few years old. It was the pipe cap that failed, not the glue, and I think the point of failure was where the inflating nozzle entered the cap; i.e., the hole that was drilled weakened the integrity of the PVC pipe cap. Don't forget to sand about an inch on one side of the launch tube, and then sand the inside of the 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch connector. Along with the list of materials in step 2, are steps 3, 4, and 5 that include not exploded diagrams, but exploded pictures of how and where everything fits together. And it it is true that I don't say how to fit every part into every other part, I do specifically use words in section 4 to telly you how to prime and glue parts (but you shouldn't do that anymore because Schedule 80 and Galvanized steel use nipples). I don't call out each part, just that general technique that is applied to all of the parts as laid out in the pictures. Likewise step 5 covers how to tape the threads for all the threaded parts (which is all that should be used anymore). But again I do not specially say how to screw in a threaded connection (lefty loosey, righty tighty), just how to prep it and then I leave it to the pictures to do the rest. If you could perhaps tell me what was the most confusing or where specific instruction may have been useful I could consider adding that. But if that happens to turn out to be something like "prime and glue the 1 inch by 3 inch PVC pipe into the 1 inch PVC elbow" followed by "Then glue the 1 inch by 12 inch PVC pipe into the previous 1 inch PVC elbow with the 1 inch by 3 inch PVC pipe attached"... I'll pass. I think it's best that you create a new and improved instructable. But thinking of safety I would recommend against gluing anything - use threaded pipe. Yes, that's a great idea! I looked at them, and the price was the main reason I didn't include them in this build. All of the bike pumps we've been using have gauges built in, so we have the students use them (also the younger groups we always have an adult helping them). The sprinkler valve is the weak link for this size pipe, and it is rated for 150 PSI I think. PVC Primer is usually purple and both stains and dissolves like crazy. It also smell bad. Be careful with it. Put down a drop cloth and wear old clothes and do this work in a well ventilated area (like outside). There always seems to be a little bit of primer left on the lip of the can, blot it up with paper towel so you don't spill it! Prime both parts that you're joining, and then apply glue to both parts to be joined. You want enough glue that you see it pushing out of the connection, but not so much that it drips or runs. Do not prime all of the pieces first - they're only likely to get grimy while you're glueing. Only prime as you go. Tip: It is often very useful to insert a non-glued piece into an elbow to help get the angle right for the other side of the elbow that you are gluing.

Glue one of the elbows to the Tee and while pushing the pieces firmly together, and make the launch tube parallel with the 13 inch tube. Since the launch tube essentially multiplies the angle at the T and elbow joint, you should be able to get them lined up closely. After inserting the frame tubes into the elbows, I placed one end of the frame onto the floor, and pushed with all my weight on the other side to make sure both tubes go all the way into the elbow connectors. Cut two 13 inch long pieces of 2 inch pressure PVC pipe. These will make up the main portion of the compression chamber. Lightly screw the nipple into the T. No need to tighten it all the way because you will use the sprinkler valve to tighten it the rest of the way.

Lengthen the wires - add some speaker wire (or any other suitable wire) to the leads (just twist the one speaker wire to one solenoid wire and repeat) from the solenoid and apply the battery as above. This puts you at a safe distance where you can better observe the launch. After gluing the second elbow to the Tee, I pushed the "mouths" of the elbows flat onto the table to try to get them as parallel as possible. If they aren't parallel, it will be very hard to fit this Tee assembly onto the rest of the launch tube. As for the residual charge, any kind of load should eat the voltage (such as a light bulb, but just make sure a resistor is used to drop the voltage so that the bulb won't be blown out). Do NOT use the launcher in the cold. PVC becomes brittle when it gets cold, and it does not fail in a graceful way.