Games Workshop - Citadel Colour Layer: Calgar Blue (12ml) Paint

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It’s a good idea to paint the whole model with thinned blue to ensure an even coat. Even moreso than with the modern look; going for a clean look is paramount. Always be ready to clean up after the fact.

So there you have it, pro-tips from one of our pro-painters! That’s just 10 of the 25 new Contrast paints – we’ve already had ideas for coruscating bolts of energy with Mantis Warrior Green and some filthy underhive terrain with Garaghak’s Sewer. The possibilities are truly endless! Deciding to paint a mercenary company grew out of a practical need: My kiddo, Lark, and I will be choosing ‘Mechs from the same pool, and having them all painted in the same scheme will get confusing.There’s a lot of green in Warhammer, from Salamanders and Nurgle Daemons, to Orks and orruks! Gutrippa Flesh is here to help, slotting in between Militarum Green and Plaguebearer Flesh . Phoenix Hawk (PHX-3K, #10, white with grey and yellow accents), piloted by Franklin “Furter” Stonewall

Scrubland: Base coat is Zandri Dust, camo elements are Deathworld Forest > Seraphim Sepia pin wash > Ushabti Bone > Wraithbone (note this is a base paint) Magos Purple and Shyish Purple were lighter Contrast paints, perfect for tinting and glazing . Out of the pot Luxion Purple provides a rich and luxurious layer. Blue without gold is like peanut butter without jelly, and a warm gold will balance the cool blue of the armor nicely. I would advise using two thinned coats of Retributor Armor, as all metallic paints are prone to clumping. We’ll wash the chest aquila and anything with detail like reliquaries or laurels with Reikland Fleshshade. I usually don’t wash the armor trim unless there’s rivets to wash around or an overlapping lip. We’ll then edge highlight it all Liberator Gold, and hit the sharpest corners with Stormhost Silver to get a gleaming gold. I sometimes skip the Liberator Gold step, but the Stormhost Silver step has a lot of impact.

Complement

The MAD-3R Marauder is my all-time favorite ‘Mech, and I painted it green as an homage to the cover of my all-time favorite Technical Manual, 3025. Any time you’re using transfers, weathering powders, or just painting over metal, you should varnish. Hell, you should probably do it on plastic models too. Varnish everything. I use Citadel’s Munitorum Varnish. Smarter Goonhammer writers than I have written many words on varnishing. Once you have this coat down, your models should be ready to go!

PPC barrel glow: Caledor Sky > Nuln Oil pin wash around it > Big dot of Temple Guard Blue > Little dot of Baharroth Blue Silver: Leadbelcher– Leadbelcher is a metallic silver paint that can be used to add a metallic touch to a miniature painted with Calgar Blue. The silver color can be used to highlight details such as weapons, ornaments and other metallic elements.Edge highlight all camo surfaces with the main base coat color’s appropriate highlight. Basically, treat the highlights as if the secondary color didn’t exist. At the same time, painting mercs sounds like fun, especially getting to experiment with lots of paint schemes, and having an identity for my ‘Mechs will be nice if I ever wind up playing folks other than Lark down the road. So I’m keeping things subtle with a small logo, and painting whatever the hell I feel like. The Long Nights mercenary company See I did a bit of poking around and I found this tutorial. Im looking for this bright of blue. Although Im basic and probably would paint my Marines as 2nd Company or maybe even 1st Company. These factions are known in the Warhammer 40k universe for their blue armor and machinery, and Calgar Blue is a perfect match to paint these miniatures. This shade of blue is deeper and richer than Lothern Blue, which can create a more striking and vibrant look for the miniatures. Calgar Blue Colour Schemes & Combinations The decision to list these armies is based on the similarity of their main color scheme and the specific shade of Calgar Blue.

Desert: Base coat is Wraithbone, camo elements are XV-88 > Seraphim Sepia > Ushabti Bone > Screaming Skull Here’s a god-tier example from Reddit that shows this technique in action (although note the painter uses multiple edge highlight colors, just not on the camo areas). Look at the edges on the Bolter — they’re all tan, and it’s amazing. Ditto this Warhammer TV video, where Duncan uses a single tan to drybrush the entire tank, including the camo sections that aren’t brown. This step looks like there’s a lot of work involved, there really isn’t but because of the amount of little bits I’ved bundled them into one step. I have a feeling my method is going to align fairly closely with JD’s, as we’re likely working from the same half-forgotten White Dwarf from ages ago.I will not be covering basing; we have other articles for that. The most important step in my process, and one you’ll see appear whenever I do edge highlights, is the cleanup stage. Always try for crisp highlights, but if you clean up any shaky lines after the fact with a thinned version of your basepaint, you’ll get cleaner results. This step will also be useful later for cleaning up wherever recess shades may have spilled over. Step 1. BasecoatAs the Thirteenth Legion of Space Marines, they were second only to the Luna Wolves in conquests during the Great Crusade and were the biggest Legion by far. They were notable for the mini-Imperium established by their Primarch, Roboute Guilliman, known as the 500 Worlds of Ultramar. Unlike most of the grimdark bullshit of 40K, Ultramar is actually a cool place to live by most standards, where people can live out relatively happy lives and enjoy some semblance of peace and prosperity. Guilliman did not see Space Marines as Eternal Warriors but instead believed that developing peace-time skills like statesmanship was just as important as warfare. The fluff often makes note of Space Marines’ superhuman minds and ability to process data far more efficiently than baseline humans, but Ultramarines are one of the only chapters that actually leverage this capability for something other than war. So that automatically makes them pretty cool. I’ll outline two techniques here – one for general red lenses, and one for green lenses whenever you have a lens appearing up against something red, such as the sergeant’s helmet. These will both usually be on eyes, but also any targeters, monocles, or what have you. I paint the eye the base color, then paint progressively brighter half moons towards the inside edge of the eye, then dot the outside, darker edge with a pure white. Woodland: Base coat is Steel Legion Drab, camo elements are Castellan Green > Agrax Earthshadepin wash > Karak Stone > Ushabti Bone The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

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Color Charts There isn’t too much silver/steel on these guys; metallics weren’t used as commonly then. If I were to do these again I’d probably go up to Ironbreaker instead of Leadbelcher for a brighter look.